The Axis of Evil

Disclaimer: to be clear and fair, the ingredients that I'm about to discuss are not inherently "evil," nor do they pose any risk to the vast majority of people. However, I'm predisposed to hyperbole, and I'm fairly convinced that at least one or two of them are to blame for setting off my perioral dermatitis.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) / Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)



I'm going to use these two chemicals interchangeably and refer to them both as SLS, though these two "cousins" are technically slightly different for science reasons. 

SLS is a "surfactant," meaning it separates out the molecules of a product in order to create a nice lather and leave you feeling cleaner. It also dries our your skin/scalp, so many companies have to add in moisturizing agents to shampoos and soaps to keep consumers happy. I also learned through my reading that it's occasionally used as a food additive to make things thicker. I'll be reading those labels better from now on!

You'll see from clicking on the EWG links, above, that SLS doesn't appear to be all that bad. While in higher concentrations it may be considered a "skin irritant," the concentrations in which it appears in our shampoo and soap should not be cause for concern. As long as it's in something you use quickly and wash off, says the FDA, you should be fine. I do wonder, though - what about cosmetics, make-up removers, etc? Even if you're not as sensitive to SLS as I am, I can imagine you might want to minimize its contact with your skin. 

Further reading: https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/what-is-sodium-lauryl-sulfate 



Parabens



There are quite a few compounds in the "paraben" regime. The most common one I've seen is methylparaben, and according to EWG there are a bunch more that are twice as evil: propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, and isopropylparaben all score a 7 or 8 (out of 10) on EWG's scale. As a general rule, I avoid ANYTHING that ends in paraben. 

To put it simply, parabens are a preservative. They're in your lotion and cosmetics in order to keep bacteria from growing inside them. Helpful, yes? To varying degrees, parabens mimic estrogen in the body and can have a cumulative effect, meaning they build up in your body over time. Some have claimed that they may function as a hormone system disrupter, and others have claimed that they're linked to breast cancer--it looks like a lot of this research is still ongoing.

Further reading: 
https://www.realsimple.com/beauty-fashion/skincare/worry-about-parabens
https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIngredients/Ingredients/ucm128042.htm


Cocamidopropyl Betaine 



Today I learned that cocamidopropyl betaine is derived from coconut oil. This stuff is in EVERYTHING. Like SLS, it's in your bath products to give you a solid lather, and it's also used to thicken cosmetics. Additionally, it's used in conditioners to make your hair less static.

Unlike the first two ingredients I referenced, people seem to know that this one is linked to allergies and specifically dermatitis, which is why it's often suggested as an ingredient to remove if you're suffering from PD. This is a tricky one, since it often shows up in things that otherwise would love to lead you to believe that they're SLS-free, paraben-free, and "all natural" or "coconut-based." Just recently, my favorite all-natural shampoo changed their formula and added this in. It also sometimes appears on bottles as a shortened "coco betaine." Keep your eyes peeled, PD sufferers of the world; this one camouflages very well if you're not looking for it specifically.

Further reading: 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocamidopropyl_betaine 
https://www.livestrong.com/article/226739-dangers-of-cocamidopropyl-betaine/


Methylisothiazolinone



Much like the members of the paraben family, methylisothiazolinone is a preservative used in many lotions and other skin products. Wikipedia tells me it is also used to paint the hulls of boats. Fun fact! 

It's commonly known that methylisothiazolinone exacerbates contact allergies & dermatitis, so I find it excruciatingly frustrating that THIS is the ingredient in the Eucerin I was using pre-PD diagnosis that was making my skin worse. Let it be known, friends, that trusted brands and "Dermatologist Recommended" mean nothing to you when you have PD. Trust no one.

Further reading: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methylisothiazolinone


On that admittedly negative note, I'll conclude this chapter on the four ingredients I have voted "Most Likely to Anger my Face." Avoiding these four ingredients kept me PD-free for nearly 2 years. What are your triggers and how did you discover them?


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